The Walters get into hot water

The family had been reduced from five to four as we dropped Kathy off at the airport last night for her flight home. Vicky immediately moved into her bed at the hotel so she could get free breakfast. She left for her lecture and we lazed about a bit then picked her up at 11am a and set off for the Coromondel peninsula, a picturesque area two hours drive from Auckland. Our destination was hot water beach. You arrive at the cafe, hire a spade, then dig a big hole in the sand. Because there is a hot spring emptying onto the beach the water seeps into the big hole and voila, you have a hot tub. Only problem is you can only do it two hours either side of low tide. We arrived at the cafe with around half an hour to go before we would get washed away. The very nice cafe lady told us not to bother hiring a spade as there would be loads of empty holes this close to the tsunami. We spotted the area on the beach and rushed over to find ourselves a nice prepared hole and jumped in. Ow! It was boiling, hotter than a hot bath. We gingerly sat, then laid down. very now and then an extra hot bit of water gushed through our pit burning us even more. I loved it, hot tub on the beach, amazing! And this close to destruction there were few people left at a place that can get extraordinarily busy, for NZ, in the summer. And we didn't have to do any digging either!

Ian getting par boiled

Strangers getting par boiled.

All too soon the sea arrived to wash our hole away so we scootled on back to the cafe and ordered a light lunch. Nothing looked very appetising so I asked Ian to share the meat platter (£13 for two) with me. It was a delicious mish mash of all sorts, meat,cheese,salmon, salady things and bread. 

Chris and Vicky had burritos, both huge. It was 3pm by now so we decided we never needed to eat again. 

Next on the Coromondel hit list was cathedral cove. We drove to the car park and set off down the track, first we came upon stingray bay, a lovely rounded beach with no one on it. We explored a bit then carried on. This was when the rain started. Luckily Vicky had a brolly and we could dodge the drops though the trees. It stopped pretty soon leaving a fantastic rainbow. Cathedral cove is a bay with an arched rock in it which we took some lovely photos at ( to follow as they are on my camera not phone like those above) then set off back calling at gemstone cove, another lovely beach. Three for the price of one. The views all around were amazing too. 

We decide to drive back through a canyon but the light failed us and there was nothing to see except the stars. We stopped and gazed up in wonder as the sky was clear and there was no light pollution. It's funny how everything is upside down down here. Much to Vickys delight we drove through the town of paeroa where the amazing drink, lemon and paeroa is made. She had her photo took beside a giant bottle and we decided to get fish and chips from a tacky looking Chinese takeaway. It cost $4.50 for fish and chips, that £2.25. We had to share the paper though.

Now we were full and tired so we made for home. 

Whales and other animals

At last, a lie in. We had booked a whale and dolphin cruise for 12.30 and decided to have a rest from the breakneck speed of our road trip for the morning. We just lazed about drinking coffee and checking our washing situation. I wandered over the road to the 24hr countdown supermarket for some breakfast things then we lazed around some more. At 11.30 we rushed down (we were late!) to meet Vicky in the lobby. We walked along to the explore New Zealand kiosk on the harbour which is where our cruise began. It turned out to be us and about twenty Chinese people, and the boat was a catamaran. It set off out of the harbour, a fantastic sight even before any creatures came along. 

The captain explained that he knew where the whales and dolphins would be by watching the gannets. He called it a 'work up'. They started diving furiously in order to get the fish that the dolphins had rounded up. As we approached the first work up about an hour into the cruise the first dolphins joined us. There were loads of them, frolicking in our bow wave and leaping and somersaulting alongside the boat. I didn't get very good pictures but here is one. 

The captain then explained that we really only cared about the dolphins because them and the gannets would attract the whales. And sure enough we spotted water from a whales blowhole ahead. The captain steered in that direction and slowed down and we saw the whale arch out if the water several times. He explained it was a Brydes, pronounced brooders, whale. We followed it for a while as it ploughed through the dolphins to massacre the little fishes. The whole situation with the frolicking dolphins, diving gannets, and menacing whale was just amazing. 

I didn't get any photos but it looked just like this.

To cap it all we also saw penguins on the water, the little blue penguin according to cap.

Just like these cuties, again no photos from me. 

He then steered us a bit closer to land where we saw another whale cruising round the gannets. All in all it was a brilliant experience which more than made up for my Icelandic disappointment. 

Kathy and Chris hard at work whale watching.

The Birds

Before leaving the motel we repacked all our cases for the flight back to Auckland. We then weighed mine and Ian's and re repacked them as the weight limit for an internal flight (20kg) is substantially less than the international one (30kg). Eventually we were good to go and set off to the re-start Mall. This is an area in the centre of Christchurch where containers are being used as shops during the rebuild. We walked around and looked round quake city, an exhibition giving details and accounts of the earthquake. 

We then drove out to Willowdale, a wildlife park near the airport where we saw tuatara and kiwis. The kiwis particularly delighted us as we have little chance of seeing them in the wild. They are a lot bigger than you think. We also saw kea, the birds we missed in Arthurs pass.

We had a small amount of time left so we found a nearby park, called the Styx river reserve, and had a nice walk. 

We dropped the Rav 4 off no problem and apex car rentals (highly recommended ) took us to the airport. Internal flights are so easy. We were allotted the very front row of the plane. At every stage from checking in to boarding we were asked if we were ok with the added responsibility of sitting in the emergency exit row, every time we said we were ok, and every time Kathy said she was not ok but had been swayed by everyone else. We left on time and arrived in Auckland just over an hour later and fifteen minutes early. We phoned apex car rentals ( even more highly recommended) and a nice man collected us and took us to our Nissan wingroad. We were hungry by this time so we stopped off for a Burger King that Kiki, our sat nav, conveniently led us to. We then threw Vicky out at Unilodge and booked into the waldorf celestion where we are to stay the next five nights. 

Crazy crazy golf

The motel in Arthurs pass was one of my favourites. It was a bit hillbilly with a big gas stove and electric blankets. It had a lovely wooden porch with a table, and apparently the kea come along and make friends. We snuggled down for the night to the sound of rain on the roof, and awoke in the morning to the same sound. There was also a really heavy thunderstorm that shook the floor. No kea appeared out of the gloom, it would have been wonderful in nice weather. It was Vickys birthday so she opened all her cards and presents, she says thank you all. It was also Anzac Day, a New Zealand public holiday. We loaded up the car and I handed the key in. Don't worry, said the lovely lady, the sun will be shining in Christchurch.

Through the gloom we could see mountains and valleys, rivers and rocks. Again it would have been wonderful in te sun. We exited the pass in the town of Sheffield, and stopped for coffee in a lovely cafe in Darfield. 

The rain also stopped in Darfield and the sun came out. We continued on to Christchurmch and Vickys choice of activities. Crazy golf! As you all know the Walters family Crazy Golf competitions are legendary. We had chosen the wonderfully named Caddyshack as our venue. The lady behind the counter was really bubbly. 'Don't hit the ball hard and if it gets stuck in the works, call us' she demanded. The course was great with lots of moving parts and themed holes, such as the castle, the airport, the mine, the zoo etc. every time a ball went through a part it made a noise. Sometimes the ball moved like on the gondola where it rode up in a gondola. It was so good we had fun without fighting, who would have thought it. At one point the group in front got their ball stuck in the roller coaster. The woman had to shout for Ray and his drill. 'I've never seen that happen before' she laughed. Good choice Vicky. 

We then checked in at our Christchurch motel, another nice one, then walked through the park to the museum. 

We looked around then drove down to the cardboard cathedral, just what it sounds like, a temporary one until they can get the real one rebuilt. Two years on the city centre is still trying to rebuild from the devestation of the earthquake in 2012 and the effects of it are everywhere. Lots of buildings are cordoned off because they are unstable or destroyed, and streets are closed. 

The cardboard cathedral

Vicky wanted Mexican for tea but because of Anzac Day both Mexican restaurants were heaving, so we ended up at an Irish pub around the corner. Food was nice though. Then back to the motel to sort out our bags for the flight back to Auckland tomorrow.

Frozen

The alarm woke us at the shockingly early time of 6.45. We had to be up, dressed, breakfasted and out for 7.45, not easy with five of us sharing the bathroom. We didn't hold out much hope for the weather but it turned out to be a beautiful morning. We arrived on time in the small town of Fox and presented at the glacier tours office. They kitted us out with boots, crampons, coats (for most of us), and mittens, and we all jumped on a bus. After a short bus ride and walk we came upon a raft tied to a rope which we used to cross a raging torrent. Another walk, involving crossing three rivers brought us to the glaciers terminal face. Our guide, Sofia, from Argentina, taught us how to put on our crampons then showed us into an amazing ice cave. We were then given a guided walk over the glacier and back down. All in all a really good tour. 

We lunched in the hob nail cafe at the glacier tours place, tramping over ice make you hungry. Our next overnight stop was to be Arthurs Pass, in the middle of the southern alps on the way to Christchurch. On the way we stopped at a beautiful lake, and Hokitika canyon, where the river was an amazing blue colour. The rain started while we were there and never let up meaning that the view was obscured. Shame. We arrived at the motel in a downpour, to find that the town had only two restaurants. We chose the Arthurs Lodge, which was surprisingly good. 

Beautiful lake

Hokitika canyon

Five go down to the sea

We set off from st arnaud in bright sunshine for a day of travelling. We were aiming for franz josef, a glacier village five hours drive away. However, the scenery on the way promised to be spectacular. First we passed though the Buller Gorge, a river valley between mountains. The road was amazing with loads of sharp bends. New Zealand bends have a very handy speed limit in them, so 65, 45, 25, we even came round a 15. They also have a 'rule' whereby if you are slow and there are four vehicles behind you, you should pull in and let them past. Ian thinks it is wonderful. We came out of the gorge at Westport and headed south, and it wasn't long before we reached the sea. We stopped at a small beach with big rocks, and not another person to be seen. Still lovely sunshine so we all had a stroll. Kathy took her shoes off for a paddle and immediately got soaked by a big wave. Ah Kathy! Back to the car we set off along the coast road voted in the top ten in the world by Lonely Planet, and you could see why. Mountains on one dies, then a windy road, then the sea. We reached our lunch stop at Punakaiki, or pancake rocks and decided to eat before exploring. Chris decided on the all day pancake stack, the board said bananas, maple syrup, cream, bacon, so he assumed he had to choose, but no, it was the lot. Obviously pandering to the Americans. We then went across to the rocks which, as you can see, are worth a visit.  

Not actual Walters footage, that and more photos to follow when we get good internet footage. 

Here we are

Off we went again through Greymouth, where we stocked up on food and petrol, and on down the coast. As we got closer to franz josef we could see that the area had had a big storm recently as loads of trees, and even some houses had been levelled to the ground. The rain started as we reached our destination, a very posh new motel with an old battle axe in reception, which immediately put me off. It was very nice but very sterile, not my favourite. Franz josef is famous for its glacier and it's hot pools so we sloshed over the road, it was raining very heavily now, and into the pools. The hottest pool was very relaxing and good to say we had tried them. Because of the rain we tried an Asian restaurNt right next door to the motel which proved to be really good. Then it was early to bed as tomorrow we needed to be up very early (for us)

All creatures great and small

We woke to the fantastic news that rotherham had beat port vale 1-0 overnight with a kieran agard goal. That set us up for the day. It was also Kathys birthday so I put up a makeshift banner and we watched her open her presents. She sends thanks to all of you. She chose to go to zealandia in the morning, a New Zealand conservation park where we could see loads of native animals. 

Obviously the kiwis were asleep, and the tuataras were nowhere in sight, it was a bit cool for them. We didn't see many birds either, a fantail, some cute New Zealand robins and a bellbird. And we did see some takahe, a bird thought to be extinct up till the 1950's. The lady at the counter said if you pop your head in the old gold mine (exciting anyway) you may see the cave weta's. Not for me then. I approached the mine mouth with caution, as the others rushed in. 'Its too dark, we can't see anything' came the cries. 'Wooo, look at that, come here mum'. I sidled in carefully, and shot back out when I saw the evil weta on the roof. Some laughter ensued, then Chris and Kathy came out to say that Kathy was looking at a weta on the wall when Chris spotted the weta family Robinson combing their long antennae through her hair! Gross. I do not like weta. They also spotted some gloworms.

 Not actual holiday footage, but very very similar

 These are the real critters

We left zealandia and headed to the ferry. After a little waiting we loaded on and the 3'o'clock ferry left dead on time. The sea was very calm and we got a fantastic view of wellington and area as we exited the bay. We crossed the cook straight and half way across a school of dolphins appeared right next to the boat. The ferry was moving too fast and soon left them behinds but it was wonderful to see them. Ian and I went up on deck to look, and spotted an albatross, something I never thought I would see. It had a huge wingspan and was dipping low over the waves. Then we saw another, and another, fantastic. We reached the South Island and the boat wound it's way through fjord like inlets, really beautiful. We spotted a fishing trawler close by and then noticed a massive school of dolphins playing in its bow wave. Then the sun began to set behind the hills, it was magical. 

Not actual holiday footage!

Actual holiday footage.

We arrived in picton bang on time, and were off the ferry in no time. We were on a tight schedule as Kathy had a job interview at 9pm via Skype. It got dark as soon as we started driving and the roads were very quiet, it was quite eerie. And then we saw it! I say we, everyone but me saw it as I had my eyes closed. Ever since Vicky came to New Zealand she has been dying to see a possum, they are more numerous than anything else and she hadn't even seen a dead one. But there it was, nonchalantly crossing the road. She was in heaven.

Not actual holiday footage either!

 We then passed this sign

Which caused much excitement, but even though it was dark and they are nocturnal we didn't see any. We arrived at the alpine lodge just after eight which gave Kathy plenty of time for her interview, she  now has a second one in Southampton but it sounds good. 

Celebrity juice!

An early start was required for our lord of the rings tour, so we trooped down to the cafe below to get breakfast at around 8.15. I had the homemade muesli which was topped with yoghurt and fruits and was absolutely delicious. At precisely 8.40 the mini bus drew up outside so we rushed out and jumped on. Our guide, Tony, introduced himself and explained we had just two more people to collect, and then we were off with a full compliment of eleven. He took us out or wellington to upper hut to show us the locations for Helms Deep, the river Anduin, the short cut to mushrooms and the black rider attack, and Rivendell. All the sets were gone but he was able to tell us some interesting facts and let us recreate certain scenes. Apparently he usually has trouble getting people to join in but all eleven of us wanted to recreate every scene. Awesome! 

 Me as an Elven king. Look closely at my ears

Kathy and Vicky recreate the scene where the black rider finds them rooting for mushrooms. Note the four time (yes FOUR time) Olympic gold medal winner pretending to be Frodo. More of him later. 

In the exact spot where the hobbits hid from the black rider!

Gandalf chats to Saruman

He then drove us up to the top of mount Victoria from where you can see the whole of wellington laid out. Ian has had an e-mail to say he has win the lotto but can't see how much while outside the uk. If we have won millions I think we will move to wellington, it is such a beautiful city.

Tony then drive us to a fantastic little beach side cafe where we all had lunch and got to know the other people on the tour a bit better. There was a lovely German girl, an Australian girl totally obsessed with Peter jacksons  films and who had been all over the world, a couple of real geeky young lads from USA , and a very nice French Canadian couple who could easily have been voted in the top 50 most beautiful Canadians list ( any closer to guessing who the Olympian is yet?)

After lunch it was time to visit weta studios, which is where most of the special effects for LOTR were created. This was fascinating, lots of the props were there and we got a tour by Max, one of the paint artists. He must have one of the best jobs in the world. Weta is actually a vicious looking New Zealand insect and the studios is named after that

Throughout the day we noticed that the young Canadian girl was wearing an Olympic top so Ian (not me) asked her if she had competed at Sochi. 'Oh yes' she said. 'Ooooh' we all cooed. 'Did you win?' 'I got silver in short track speed skating' she replied ' but Charles won three golds'. Cue stunned looks and the feeling of being in the presence of greatness. In googling later we found that he was Charles Hamelin and had won gold in Vancouver four years earlier and is the Usain bolt of short track. He was on for five golds but fell in one and his brother fell in the relay ruling them out if that one. Together they are Canada's posh and becks. Imagine my delight!! They were a very pleasant couple though so I am rooting for them in Korea.

That concluded our tour and we really enjoyed it. We later had a stroll along the delightful harbour and ate on 'world famous Cuba street' once again, this time in an Indian. The discussion was all about speed skating and whether the bug Ian had found at Jungkes pool running round the kitchen was a Weta. 

The paths of the dead

Today was a travelling day with an exciting walk thrown in.

We left the aubyn lodge in Palmerston North and set off to the south east corner of the north island. The day had started nice and sunny so three of us went for shorts. The journey was wonderful with several different landscapes along the way, wide open plains made way to hills then to vineyards as far as the eye could see. This area of New Zealand is wine country, the Marlborough region. We were a little concerned that being Easter Sunday we would have trouble with food again, and indeed not much seemed to be open in the few towns we passed through. Then we arrived in Martinborough, a tiny town in the very centre of the vineyards, and all of the many cafés and shops were open. We bought some sandwiches to eat later and had coffee sat outside a charming cafe. 

On we went, turning onto the road to Cape Palliser (no exit), the south easternmost tip. We went up another undulating hill and the view from the top of the sea was spectacular. A little further along a sign got us all excited

Yes the old penguin crossing! Unfortunately none crossed while we drove that way.

We arrived at our destination and ate our lunch. We then set off to walk up to the Putangirua Pinnacles, strange rock formations that were used in The Lord of the Rings films as the paths of the dead.

 After our exciting walk, which involved multiple stream crossings and a dropped phone, we set off for wellington. 

We had noticed that the way to the capital seemed to be over a forbidding looking mountain range, and we had to cross it. Ian was in his element with all the bends, and the views once again were spectacular. Down the other side we arrived in wellington and our digs for the next two nights, a small bistro hotel above a cafe. Wellington proved expensive when I was looking for a hotel, and this was the best option. We went out later for tea and ended up eating Thai on wellington's world famous Cuba street, I bet you've heard of it haven't you? 

Tomorrow is The Lord if the rings tour and we have to be up early, so it's early to bed tonight.